91直播 Alumni Magazine
Treasure Hunting
A peek into the expansive world of Tony-winning costume designer Montana Levi Blanco '07
June 4, 2025
Serena Zets '22
Montana Levi Blanco '07 uses his research skills and love of history to create beautiful costumes that actors love to wear.
Photo credit: Samantha Jane
Montana Levi Blanco '07 has been on a treasure hunt his whole life. Growing up in Albuquerque, New Mexico, Blanco spent his childhood playing in the studio of his grandmother, a lampshade artisan. Some of his earliest memories involve toying with beads and cutting electrical wire to create makeshift arts and crafts projects. Just like his grandmother, he developed a knack for turning simple materials into intricate creations鈥攁nd crafting a new world with his own hands.
Decades later, as a costume designer living and working in New York City, Blanco designs worlds so vivid and textured that they transform sold-out theaters into other places. 鈥淲hen I started to train and learn about materials鈥攈ow they鈥檙e made, how they鈥檙e woven鈥擨 realized that I had this subconscious knowledge and memory of what types of materials might be more appropriate for certain garments or what鈥檚 not good for movement,鈥 he says. 鈥淎nd I think that comes from being around it so much so young. Everything I work with now are things I've been touching and engaging with since my earliest memories.鈥
Since committing his professional life to costume design in 2011 while on a fellowship at the McNay Art Museum, Blanco has worked on some of the most exciting productions in New York, including costuming two Metropolitan Opera productions (Champion and El 狈颈帽辞) and Michael R. Jackson鈥檚 acclaimed Broadway musical A Strange Loop. But his Broadway debut, for the 2022 revival of Thornton Wilder鈥檚 The Skin of Our Teeth, was even more impressive: Blanco won a Tony for Best Costume Design in a Play.
Incredibly enough, A Strange Loop won Best Musical and Best Book of a Musical that same night, meaning Blanco was suddenly the costume designer for two Tony-winning shows. But he was even more thankful that his most important inspiration鈥攈is grandmother鈥攚itnessed this win. 鈥淚 dedicate this to my mother and grandmother,
two Mexican American single mothers,鈥 Blanco said in his acceptance speech. "They are the reason I am here."
Several years later, his gratitude for his grandmother is still evident. 鈥淪he could see that all the love and work that still evident. 鈥淪he could see that all the love and work that she put into me and my mom meant something,鈥 Blanco says. 鈥淪omething came from it. Yes, there鈥檚 professional validation, but there are moments that come along that matter to your family. My grandma could go to church, and people knew about the Tony.鈥
Blanco鈥檚 Tony win closed the loop on the familial legacy of creation introduced to him by his grandmother; it also propelled him into a future of professional opportunity. Through the end of 2026, Blanco has multiple projects opening across the country, including This House performed by Opera Theatre of St. Louis and the highly anticipated Purple Rain world premiere at the State Theatre in Minneapolis. 鈥淲hat a blessing to be in a profession where you can engage in this full kaleidoscope and the full depth of the human experience in a really deep way,鈥 he says.
Montana is the costumer designer for A Strange Loop (left), which won Tony Awards for Best Musical and Best Book of a Musical. He also won his own Tony for Best Costume Design in a Play for the 2022 revival of Thornton Wilder's The Skin of Our Teeth (right).
Another one of Blanco's early memories is 鈥渢reasure hunting鈥 at estate sales and yard sales with his family. 鈥淚t鈥檚 fully incorporated into every thread of what I do, a little bit of treasure hunting,鈥 he says. 鈥淵ou鈥檙e sifting, sifting, sifting鈥攁nd then there鈥檚 this emotional connection to an object. I really do feel like there is a creative art to
to an object. sifting through the overlooked to find the gem.鈥
Blanco still spends his free time sifting through estate sales, thrift stores, and costume shops hoping to find the right gem for the next of his many projects. A large part of being a costume designer is weaving together these tiny treasures into a cohesive visual landscape. Designers must remain attentive to how the drape of a dress moves when an actor is dancing, how the lead鈥檚 jewelry looks under stage lights during their final monologue, whether a mask will work with a mic, and so much more.
鈥淲hat I鈥檝e realized about doing costume is that the aesthetic final product part of it is really 30 to 40 percent of what I do,鈥 Blanco explains. 鈥淎 lot of what I do is looking at the world, observing the world, observing how people dress in a way that tells some kind of story about who they are.鈥
Designing The Skin of Our Teeth required Blanco to create over 100 costumes covering three distinct American time periods: the Civil War, the 1920s, and the mid-20th century. All of the costumes are brightly colored, structured, and layered. For example, his favorite costume from The Skin of Our Teeth is worn by the Fortune Teller, who is introduced in Act 2 as a fixture of the 1922 Atlantic City boardwalk. While researching materials, Blanco found a 鈥済orgeous piano shawl from the 1920s鈥 that became the skirt and 鈥渁esthetic centerpiece鈥 of the outfit.
鈥淚t was also a relic from the historical period we were depicting onstage, giving the clothing a subtle aura of depth and honesty,鈥 he adds. 鈥淔or me, it was important to imbue this costume with a sense of antiquity and age. My design research led me to period photography of mystics, soothsayers, and Romani peoples. One thing I found quite beautiful in this imagery was the collaging of numerous fabrics into a single garment. It is as if each textile was collected over time, each textile a singular story to tell.鈥
Perfecting these details requires a close eye and a deep care for the work, which is why Blanco鈥檚 approach is rooted in a compassionate witnessing of the actor in front of him. The emotional integrity of a costume鈥攁nd an actor鈥檚 comfort in wearing it鈥攎atters as much as historical accuracy.
Now, Blanco spends the first rehearsal taking note of what each actor is wearing to gauge what types of clothing makes them feel most comfortable and confident. During subsequent fittings with actors leading up to opening night, he asks them questions about what clothing feels most affirming for them to ensure that they鈥檙e best equipped to do their job.
鈥淢y most fulfilling moments in the theater have been moments of deep vulnerability with performers,鈥 Blanco says. 鈥淪ome of that includes working with actors with disabilities and learning how to support them, clothe them, and make them feel strong鈥擺or] working with actors with different gender expressions, some fully formed and some in different moments of development.
鈥淚 didn鈥檛 realize I had all these human skill sets that would be valuable as a costume designer,鈥 he continues. 鈥淭here鈥檚 a deep responsibility we have as costume designers that goes far beyond the clothes and the character. It鈥檚 really about two humans learning about
each other and supporting each other.鈥
The marriage of emotion and precision reflects the tactile knowledge Blanco developed as a child, paired with the research methodologies he honed at 91直播, having graduated with a double degree in history and oboe performance. Although Blanco didn鈥檛 participate in any theater productions or operas鈥攊n fact, he never even played in an orchestra pit or for an opera鈥91直播 nevertheless prepared him for a career in the theater.
Blanco would visit the bookstore during add-drop at the start of every semester to survey the required books for each class and choose his electives based on what readings drew him in. Over time, he realized that history classes called to him; in fact, he viewed Emerita
Professor of History Carol Lasser as a mentor. 鈥淏y the end of my time at 91直播, Carol helped me realize that I was interested in disparate histories and how these histories were in conversation with each other,鈥 Blanco says. 鈥淭hese comparative histories are very applicable to what I do now.鈥
The late oboe professor James Caldwell also played a foundational role in Blanco鈥檚 creative practice and approach to leadership. (Caldwell鈥檚 love for bonsai trees鈥
and how he viewed tending to his trees as similar to caring for his students鈥攕tuck with Blanco; in fact, Blanco credits his love of plants to the professor.) Studying music in a
conservatory environment also 鈥渢eaches you discipline, failure, practicing, and competition,鈥 Blanco says. 鈥淎nd you are one part of of this greater whole. It鈥檚 very similar to the theater.鈥
Looking back, Blanco says his time at 91直播 cultivated what he describes as an 鈥渋ntimate
expansiveness鈥 that demanded he learn widely about new things鈥攁nd learn more deeply about the things he thought he already knew. 鈥淓very project I do requires a new set of books and movies and exhibitions you can go to and conversations you can have. ... It combines all of these things that 91直播 taught me: a love of reading, learning, and conversation.鈥
After 91直播, he earned a master鈥檚 degree in public humanities at Brown University and an MFA in design at the Yale School of Drama. While in these programs, Blanco thought about the experience of the broader public engaging with his curatorial work, which led
him to costume design. 鈥淭he fact that I discovered the theater at 27 shows you can do two professional trainings and think that鈥檚 what your life鈥檚 purpose is, and you can still find later on what your life鈥檚 next purpose is,鈥 Blanco says. 鈥淚鈥檓 only 40; I may have a moment where I find another life鈥檚 purpose.鈥
Every project I do requires a new set of books and movies and exhibitions you can go to and conversations you can have.
Montana Levi Blanco '07
Blanco and his Yale classmate Lileana Blain-Cruz, the director of both The Skin of Our Teeth and El 狈颈帽辞, also cultivated a collaborative working relationship that helped shape their respective careers. 鈥淲hen I moved to New York, Lileana went to these
institutions and producers and advocated for me and got me my first jobs off-Broadway,鈥 Blanco says. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 how I also started. I owe her a lot. A lot of my trajectory is tied to
the directors and crews I work with.鈥
As it happens, Blain-Cruz is directing Purple Rain, while another one of the pair鈥檚 longtime friends and collaborators, the Pulitzer Prize finalist Branden Jacobs-
Jenkins, wrote the play adaptation. For Blanco, the first step in preparing for a project as massive as Purple Rain is to do his usual archival research and extensive reading so he can 鈥減ull any images that are evocative or inspirational,鈥 he says. 鈥淵ou have to prepare your eye and your mind. In many ways, the theater is the study of humanity and relationships.鈥
Since graduating, Blanco has accumulated an extensive library of books; among his greatest textual influences are Isabel Wilkerson鈥檚 nonfiction masterpiece about the Great
Migration, The Warmth of Other Suns, and Min Jin Lee鈥檚 fictional epic Pachinko. 鈥淎s a designer, it鈥檚 our tools,鈥 he says of this library. 鈥淲e have this resource of the internet
and Googling things, but it鈥檚 important to reference physical books that you鈥檙e not going to encounter on the internet.鈥 Ever the historian and storyteller, Blanco is particularly inspired by generational family epics, both fiction and nonfiction. 鈥淭he specificity of character and nuance of familial dynamics over a period time is a gift for any storyteller鈥攁nd most certainly for a costume designer,鈥 he says. 鈥淭hese books have a profound way of
telling the story of a people鈥攐r a nation鈥攂y chronicling the minutiae of everyday existence.鈥
The Minneapolis premiere of Purple Rain is billed as 鈥減re-Broadway,鈥 meaning that Blanco鈥檚 return to Broadway is likely imminent. In 2026, Blanco will also return to the Metropolitan Opera for Lincoln in the Bardo, an opera once again directed by Blain-Cruz.
It鈥檚 an ambitious time that Blanco is well prepared for with his scavenged treasures, beloved books, curious friends, and supportive family by his side. After all, the productions he works on are richer, more vibrant, more colorful, and more emotionally compelling because of the love and attention he gives to not just the costumes, but his team, the actors, and the original works.
鈥淚 think that love is really threaded through every element of costume,鈥 Blanco says. 鈥淲e are dealing so intimately with the performers, the actors. Love is threaded into the joy and the safe space my team creates. Love is threaded into the creative team we鈥檝e been working with for over a decade. ... Being a costume designer involves so much emotional and human connection that is very private and very intimate. That鈥檚 where this thread of love comes through.鈥
Serena Zets 鈥22 is a Washington, D.C.-based freelance journalist and essayist and a regular contributor to Washington City Paper. This story originally appeared in the Spring 2025 issue of the .
On the cover:
Montana Levi Blanco '07 is photographed in front of his wall of research materials in his New York City apartment, spring 2025. Photo by Samantha Jane.
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