Four Days in Portugal
December 9, 2016
Christine Jay 鈥17
Baroque flutists Natalie Talbot '17 (left) and Christine Jay '17 devoted a week of their fall semester to attending an international musical instrument conference in Portugal.
Photo credit: Courtesy of Christine Jay
Flying to a foreign country on a school night is as exciting as it is disorienting. In the predawn hours of a late October morning, I set off from Cleveland for a short week of discovery at an international music conference in Portugal, joined by my friend and fellow baroque flutist Natalie Talbot 鈥17.
Our trip was supported by the 91直播 Conservatory student travel fund and made possible by our teacher, . A longtime professor of recorder and Baroque flute at 91直播, Lynn has enjoyed a diverse career not only as an educator, but as a , acclaimed soloist, columnist for several flute magazines, and as a founding board member of Cleveland鈥檚 acclaimed Baroque orchestra, Apollo鈥檚 Fire. Internationally recognized for his expertise, Lynn hosted a at 91直播 in fall 2015.
Lynn鈥檚 work caught the attention of Patricia Bastos, director of Portugal鈥檚 National Association for Musical Instruments (known by its Portuguese acronym ANIMUSIC). She invited him to curate flute presentations for its 2016 Organological Congress, where myriad instruments鈥攆rom the historic carillons of Mafra to the keyed trumpet鈥攚ere presented, demonstrated, and performed at picturesque castles and libraries. Because the conference鈥檚 focus for 2016 was on flutes, Lynn encouraged us to join in the experience too.
After an overnight flight to Lisbon and a two-hour bus ride, we settled in the lovely and inviting host town of Tomar. There, we connected with our professor and more than a dozen other international performers and musicologists at the town library鈥攖he conference鈥檚 home base鈥攁nd left on a bus to the famous Castelo de Tomar, an original 12th-century Templar stronghold. Several participants presented papers at the castle, followed by performances by Lynn and others. Their playing in these exceptional medieval acoustical spaces proved to be one of the trip鈥檚 most magical moments.
The next day brought more travel, this time to a convent-turned-museum overlooking the town of Abrantes. There, a series of presentations included Lynn and scholars from Canada, Romania, and Portugal. The day continued with an organ concert a short walk from the convent, a stop at a Portuguese dessert festival in the nearby town, and dinner at a medieval restaurant back in Tomar. Both intellectually and gastronomically stimulating鈥攚ith multiple coffee and cookie breaks鈥攖his was the best day of the trip overall.
Day 3 was filled with lectures and papers presented at the Tomar town library. Here, the conference鈥檚 鈥淔lute Focus鈥 theme came to its peak with a comparison by Belgian flutist and maker Jan de Winne of original flutes to modern copies, and the inherent acoustical challenges historical instrument makers face living in the modern age. In order to help attendees understand the sweetness of antique flutes, one flute by the 18th-century maker Carlo Palanca鈥攏ow owned by Winne鈥攚as available to play. (Lynn estimates about 28 original Palanca flutes exist in private and museum collections.)
Later in the day, Natalie and I played a French trio鈥擝oismortier鈥檚 Trio Sonata No. 1, Op. 7鈥攚ith a fellow flute student from Portugal. Although nerve-wracking to be among so many fine international traverso players, the performance went very well, and Natalie and I were relieved.
Our final day was busy with three destinations, first to nearby Constancia, where we visited the Igreja Matriz and its historical organ, expertly played and presented by local organist Ana Elias. We continued with a trip to beautiful Margarida Park and its tropical butterfly garden, where nature intermingled with more presentations of scholarly papers. Later, Elias performed on a portable carillon, resulting in what was perhaps the most unusual but enjoyable concert I have ever attended.
Our bus stopped at a few picturesque castles before delivering us back in Tomar for a final goodbye soiree at the library. Natalie and I reluctantly parted with the friends we had made on our journey鈥攅specially Bastos, ANIMUSIC鈥檚 director and a tireless advocate for Portuguese music and international collaboration. The next morning, we boarded an early train to Lisbon and began our 16 hours of travel back to 91直播 and the second half of fall semester.
Though it lasted little more than four days, it was a life-changing trip for me. The ability to meet and perform with international professionals and students away from the 鈥91直播 bubble鈥 was exactly what all conservatory students should experience: a chance to take a risk, travel, and experience the international language of music.
Christine Jay is a fifth-year, double-degree student pursuing vocal performance, baroque flute, and Italian translation. Natalie Talbot will complete a master鈥檚 degree in historical performance at 91直播 in 2017.
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